London, England

Charles and I just returned from a quick jaunt to London. Oh, how I love that city, and for so many reasons. It’s urban, yet genteel. The streets are clean and the buildings are mostly low-rise, which provides a democratization of sky – whether blue or gray – for all to see and experience throughout the day. London is a true city, so there exists a hustle-and-bustle energy, but it’s a calmer, more courteous flurry, made even more civilized by the omnipresence of the rhythmic English accent heard on every corner.

I’ve been to London so many times that It’s like a second home to me. As a creature of habit, I have several places I like to visit once I get into town:

My first stop is always the Paul Smith Sale Shop on Avery Row in Mayfair. I make a mad dash up the very narrow and crooked staircase to the second floor (or first floor in the UK), where a sea of post-season floral wovens are laid out on a central table. I unintentionally make the salespeople insane, having them run up and down the rickety stairs to look for additional sizes in the stockroom down below, but it’s worth it in the end because I always leave with a shopping bag teeming with those distinctive, expertly crafted floral shirts.

After Paul Smith, I head over to Liberty of London, only a short walk away. Located at the top of Carnaby Street, Liberty is a renowned British department store and fabric house that dates back to the 19th century. A florist flanks the main entrance, always with beautiful stems and bouquets on display. Once inside, I make a beeline for the back stairwell and head down to the lower level to the men’s department, which showcases exclusive collaborations with new and renowned designers, as well as a collection of Liberty’s latest signature prints. On my last visit, I was delighted to discover a portion of the lower level converted into a new fragrance gallery, featuring scents from several rare fragrance ateliers. This is where I discovered Matière Première, a newish French line of unisex perfumes, each built around a high-quality central ingredient. A very knowledgeable fragrancist led me to Vanilla Powder, my new obsession.

I have a few other shopping districts I like to visit, all in the West End:

• Berwick Street in Soho has become one of my favorite destinations. This lively and eclectic street is lined with vintage shops, independent boutiques, and in more recent times, trendy restaurants and bars. On previous trips, I was introduced to several one-off brands that have since exploded around the world, including Wax London and A Day’s March. On this past trip, I stumbled across Wear London, a modern menswear shop featuring classic, clean silhouettes made of fabrics sourced from Italy.

• I also love taking a stroll up and down Marylebone High Street. This charming and sophisticated shopping street is known for its mix of independent boutiques, high-end stores, and hopping cafes and restaurants that literally spill onto the street. It was here that I rediscovered Bobbies, a Parisian shoemaker I had fallen in love with on a trip to France many years ago. On this past trip, Charles and I had a delightful brunch with a cousin at the Viennese-inspired Fischer’s, and then ducked into the nearby Wallace Collection for an hour or so to ogle at the Canalettos and Rembrandts on display.

• We always stay at a hotel in Covent Garden, near Seven Dials. This charming area is famous for its distinctive star-shaped layout with seven streets radiating from a central point, where you’ll find the iconic Seven Dials monument. Each street is lined with boutiques, cafes, theaters, restaurants, and several of the dials are connected by beautiful squares and hidden courtyards. The most beloved courtyard is Neal’s Yard, home to the eponymous Remedies store that’s been selling natural and organic health and beauty products for over 40 years. Around the corner is Monmouth Street, a beauty destination in its own right, with store after store of well-known, luxury beauty and fragrance brands, like Elemis and Miller Harris. This past visit, I popped into the brand new Trudon boutique, a French candle company with a rich history dating back to 1643.

In the heart of Soho are two squares where I love to spend a few minutes, in between my mania of shopping – Soho Square and Golden Square. Soho Square is rooted by huge, old plane trees, and is usually very active with young Londoners playing ping pong. It’s a great place to eat a quick bite or sip a coffee and people watch. Golden Square is a bit more rarefied and serene. It’s also only two blocks from Regent Street, which is often packed with people, making it a much needed and conveniently located respite from the crowds.

With Charles’ connection to the theater, we always end up seeing several plays while in town. Most often, we’ll see a show or two in the West End, which is London’s equivalent of Broadway. On our recent visit, we witnessed a formidable, heart-wrenching modern adaptation of Sophocles’ Oedipus, created by Robert Icke and starring Mark Strong and Lesley Manville. It was truly one of the best nights in theater I have ever experienced. We also often trek across the River Thames to the National Theatre, which was founded in 1963 by Laurence Olivier and has several stages and a diverse range of productions, from classic plays to contemporary works.

Speaking of the Thames, I love to take a stroll along the Victoria Embankment. This beautiful and historic stretch of road runs along the north bank of the river and offers stunning skyline and water views. The Embankment is lined with many impressive buildings, including the luxurious Savoy Hotel, the historic Somerset House, home to the world-class Courtauld Gallery, and the Art Deco Shell Mex House. There are also numerous gardens that offer a peaceful retreat with beautiful flower beds, emerald lawns, and riverside walks.

A trip to London wouldn’t be complete without a meal at J Sheekey or The Ivy, both located in Covent Garden. J Sheekey is an eminent seafood restaurant known for its elegant ambiance and exceptional quality. It’s been a favorite among locals and visitors alike for over a century. A popular dish is their elevated version of fish and chips, which just might be the best in all the city. We often dine there with our dear friend, Zoë Wanamaker, who is such a beloved patron that they named a martini after her. The original Ivy is located on West Street, just around the corner from J Sheekey. It’s been a popular destination for socialites and theater-goers since 1917. The iconic harlequin stained-glass windows, oak paneling, and shimmering central bar create a timeless and sophisticated atmosphere. The kitchen churns out exceptional takes on British classics, like shepherd’s pie, fish pie, and kidney pudding.

At the end of the day, when I’ve tired myself out from nonstop shopping, eating, and socializing, I lay my head to rest in a Deluxe King or Corner Studio Suite at the five-star St Martins Lane Hotel, situated in the heart of Covent Garden towards the bottom of St Martin’s Lane, very near the National Gallery and Trafalgar Square. The location can’t be beat. The rooms are spacious and the bathrooms are some of my favorites of any hotels I’ve stayed in, with walk-in showers with amazing water pressure and Malin+Goetz beauty products.

I leave you with my final piece of admiration of London… At the end of each trip when we’re ready to head to the airport, we take a black cab to Paddington and hop on the Heathrow Express. Twenty minutes later, we’re rolling our bags into the ground level of Terminal 3. I can’t think of another city with a major airport that is so easily accessible.

Last visited in November, 2024

#England