Bergen, Norway
After trading the boundless, rolling expanse of the North Atlantic for the sheltered waters of Norway, the Silver Dawn pulled into the harbor of Bergen – and the contrast with the urban sprawl of Oslo was immediate and striking. This city, the “Gateway to the Fjords,” is defined by its dramatic geography: nestled deep within a magnificent fjord, where steep, verdant cliffs meet historic architecture. Over the next 18 hours, Charles and I would prepare our senses for the full discovery of this charming coastal gem, from its medieval docks to its mountainous views.
Bryggen: Stepping into Norway’s Medieval Trading Past
Disembarking at the cruise terminal, our first order of business was to follow the harbor, strolling past the imposing walls of Bergenhus Fortress until we reached the iconic and colorful, UNESCO-listed wooden houses of Bryggen.
These vibrant, Hanseatic-era commercial buildings – literally meaning “the dock” in Norwegian – are a visual testament to Bergen’s importance as a key trading post. Following a devastating fire in 1702, the area was rebuilt in the traditional medieval style, maintaining the dense, narrow layout of the original settlement. Historically, it was the center of the Hanseatic League’s trade in dried cod from Northern Norway, solidifying Bergen’s status as a major European commercial hub for centuries. We spent a delightful amount of time simply getting lost here, meandering in and out of the narrow alleyways and through the small shops. The quaint, slightly crooked architecture is truly magnetic – it feels like you’ve stepped right into a storybook.
From Apothecary Finds to High-End Norwegian Style
The crisp, cool air of the North Atlantic is invigorating for the soul, but my skin was feeling the effects of the dry climate! A quick detour for a pharmacy fix was necessary. I located an apotek that turned out to be a treasure trove, stocking an impressive array of high-end skincare brands. I picked up a jar of Murad Heartleaf Calming Cream, which immediately soothed my irritated skin – a true travel essential rescue!
The pharmacy led directly out onto Torgallmenningen, Bergen’s primary public square and a beautiful, wide pedestrian thoroughfare. This elegant square serves as the modern commercial heart of Bergen. It’s often used for public events and features the striking Sjøfartsmonumentet (Maritime Monument), celebrating Norway’s seafaring history. Lined with high-end shops and department stores, it’s a wonderful place to people-watch and soak up the modern energy of the city.
Just around the corner was the Norwegian Rain & T-Michael Bergen flagship store. T-Michael, a Ghanaian/Norwegian artist, partners with Norwegian Rain to create stylish, high-performance, and sustainable outerwear. Their pieces blend classic tailoring with technical waterproof fabrics for the famously rainy Bergen climate. I got to meet T-Michael, who was sketching in his studio downstairs from the showroom.
A Taste of the Coast: Bergen’s Famous Fish Market
Next stop: the famous Fisketorget (Fish Market). This historic market is situated right on the harbor and has been a vibrant trading post for fish and other local produce for centuries. While it has evolved over time – and is now a modern, covered space – the market continues to be a central spot for locals and visitors alike.
The array of fresh whole fish and seafood caught just hours earlier was stunning. Vendors proudly display the morning’s catch, offering everything from whole turbot to sea urchins plus prepared meals and local delicacies. To complete the experience, we had to grab a Skagen sandwich from Fish Me. Served on an open-face baguette, this combination of shrimp, mayonnaise, dill, and roe was utterly delicious and the perfect mid-day fuel.
Panoramic Views, Forest Trails, and Troll Tales
After walking Charles back to the Silver Dawn for a well-deserved rest, it was time for my afternoon adventure: an excursion up Mount Fløyen! I met a small group of fellow travelers from the ship at the port, along with our local guide. The group included a friendly couple from Ventura, California, and another from Austin, Texas. We quickly bonded over travel stories and their love (and fear) of New York City. The couple from Austin had a daughter heading to Columbia for grad school, and I was happy to assure them she’d be safe living off-campus.
We walked back along the harbor to the lower station of the Fløibanen Funicular. Mount Fløyen is one of Bergen’s seven iconic mountains. The Fløibanen Funicular, which opened in 1918, swiftly transports passengers from the city center to the upper station at 1,050 feet above sea level. The ride is quick – only about 10 minutes – but it’s an absolute necessity for anyone seeking the definitive Bergen view!
From the top, the vista was breathtaking. We could see the entire city sprawling deep into the fjord, with the vast North Sea and the lush, green mountains stretching out in the distance. We trekked uphill from the viewing platform, following a carriage trail that meandered through towering trees and moss-covered hills. The trail led us to Revurtjern Lake, which we circumnavigated, passing an old mill along the way. We continued further up to a clearing near another small lake, where we found signs with intriguing references to trolls. Our guide shared fascinating tales from Norse folklore, explaining the role of these mythical creatures in the Norwegian mountains. It truly added a layer of magic to the already enchanting forest!
On our way back, we spent some time at the upper station, soaking up the final, amazing views and getting a close-up introduction to the Fløyen goats, the resident local celebrities who help maintain the landscape. After our descent, we walked back to the ship with our guide, passing right through the scenic grounds of Bergenhus Fortress. This is one of Norway’s oldest and best-preserved fortresses, with a history stretching back to the 13th century. It was an important royal seat and military stronghold, and the grounds – with their picturesque, old-growth trees lining the pathways – offer a peaceful contrast to the bustling harbor it guards.
A Culinary Finale: Dinner at Moon Restaurant
Later that evening, Charles and I strolled back into the city center for a fantastic dinner at Moon restaurant. Centrally located, Moon is celebrated for its modern Norwegian cuisine, focusing on seasonal and local ingredients. The restaurant offers an upscale dining experience that beautifully showcases the best of the region’s produce and seafood.
We began our meal with a champagne-style cider made from local apples – a stunning apéritif that paired beautifully with the rest of the four-course meal:
- Spring Tartlet: With a creamed pea and mint filling, garnished with crisp asparagus and green onion stems.
- Arctic Char: Exquisitely prepared with a subtle herb-infused sauce, adorned with salmon roe, radish, and delicate edible flowers.
- Foie Gras: A perfectly caramelized slab garnished with tart local red currants and deep purple-leafed wood sorrel, all set off by a berry gastrique.
- Dessert: A memorable peanut butter ice cream tart featuring shattered honeycomb and a cloud of vanilla mousse.
We made our final walk back to the ship around 9pm, still amazed by the bright twilight – a fantastic perk of high-latitude travel. Our visit was short, but Bergen offered a comprehensive taste of fjord-side life. The perfect blend of medieval history, local flavor, and natural spectacle makes this city unforgettable. If you’re looking for the quintessential Norwegian port of call, this is it.
Last visited in April, 2025
