The Alentejo, Portugal

Following Lisbon and our day trip to the Setúbal Peninsula, Charles and I headed east to the Alentejo, an untouched, picturesque region dominated by vast plains, rolling hills, cork oak forests, and olive groves. It’s a land of wide-open spaces with a slower way of life – and very few cars on the road. It was the ideal change of pace from the hustle and bustle of lively Lisbon. 

The Alentejo boasts a rich history dating back to prehistoric times, evidenced by monuments like the Cromeleque dos Almendres, a stone circle constructed around 6000 BCE. Roman rule brought significant developments in agriculture and infrastructure, followed by Moorish influence that left its mark on architecture and culture. The Christian Reconquista led to the construction of numerous castles and fortified towns, like Évora, Beja, and Estremoz. The region has experienced periods of prosperity and decline throughout the medieval and modern eras. In recent decades, efforts have been made to revitalize the local economy, particularly through tourism and wine production.

We stayed at Convento do Espinheiro, a historic hotel and spa located a few miles outside of Évora. I will say upfront that it wasn’t my favorite property. We booked a 1950’s modern-inspired suite, which appeared tired and musty. The layout of the hotel was ridiculous. To get to our suite, we had to walk down three absurdly long hallways. There was a lovely interior courtyard that would’ve shortened the journey, but the hotel kept all exterior doors locked. A few positives: the grounds were scattered with numerous blossoming bitter orange trees, which permeated the air with the intoxicating scent of neroli; and the property integrated several historic architectural details into the design, like the hauntingly beautiful cloisters.

The next day in perfect spring weather, we met Raquel, a young guide, who led us on a private tour of Évora’s UNESCO-recognized historic center. We began at the University of Évora, which was founded in 1559 by the Jesuits and houses numerous architectural masterpieces, showcasing the Manueline style prevalent in 16th-century Portugal. As is the case throughout the country, many of the interior and exterior walls are adorned with intricate azulejo tiles – all hand-painted and glazed. The courtyards and hallways were abuzz with students zipping between classes, with textbooks stuffed under their arms. We noticed some students wearing capes, which Raquel explained is a long-standing tradition with universities in Portugal; each school has its own cape design. Does this sound familiar? It should for Harry Potter fans. Supposedly, JK Rowling drew inspiration from Portuguese university students for her cape-clad pupils of Hogwarts.

From the university, we entered the old city through one of several gates still standing, and ascended narrow, cobbled streets lined with strikingly whitewashed houses and fortified walls, with ribbons of gold painted around doorways and windows. As I’ve experienced elsewhere on the Iberian Peninsula, the cavernous white lanes create an illusion of brightness, turning the sky an intense cobalt blue. We reached a square situated on the highest point of the city and were struck by the site of the Roman Temple of Évora. This remarkable ancient structure, with its impressive Corinthian columns, was built around the 1st century AD and was likely dedicated to Emperor Augustus. It was adapted throughout the years by the various conquerors of the city, which helped in the preservation of the temple over time.

Around the corner, we visited the Cathedral of Évora, another architectural marvel featuring an amalgam of structures and styles, from Gothic to Baroque, that have been layered on over the centuries. Raquel led us up to the roof, which offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city and surrounding countryside. The roof edges directly above the nave are ringed with merlins, indicating the cathedral’s role as a stronghold at times throughout its history. The octagonal dome features eight turrets dripping in ornate, Manueline decoration. Numerous spires are dispersed throughout the roof’s surface in the same intricate style. After taking in the scenery and basking in the brilliant spring sun, we descended the roof and took a quick spin around the serene 14th century Gothic cloisters, which showcase the refined architectural taste from that era.

From the cathedral, we strolled through the Praça do Giraldo, Évora’s charming main square, en route to the Capela dos Ossos, or Chapel of Bones, located within the Church of São Francisco. The walls, pillars, and ceiling of this small chapel are entirely decorated with bones and skulls of over 5,000 monks. There’s even a chandelier made of bones. It was too macabre for Charles, but I was fascinated. An inscription above the entrance reads: “We bones that are here, wait for yours.” Definitely not mine…I’m planning to be cremated. Raquel departed from here, and we had a delightful lunch at A Bruxa D’Évora, back near the cathedral, followed by some shopping and strolling along Rua Cinco de Outubro.

Later that evening, Charles and I returned to Évora for dinner at Restaurante Fialho, a gastronomic institution established in 1945. When we were seated at our table, a huge spread was already waiting for us: chunks of octopus and garlic in olive oil, shavings of black ham prosciutto, sauteed mushrooms and broad beans, a wedge of Serra da Estrela cheese with a dollop of apricot jam, and slices of fresh country bread. We thought this was all included in the cover…and so we dug into each plate. Little did we know these were optional starters from the kitchen, which are customarily placed on the table at the onset of a meal. You aren’t obliged to partake in the eating of any of these items – but we were those glutenous Americans who ate it all. And it was all so delicious. We also ordered bacalhau croquettes the size of softballs and shared a beautifully cooked pork chop from the local Alentejano breed of pig. It was certainly a meal to remember.

The following day, we hopped in our rental car and drove 75 miles northeast to the Serra de São Mamede mountains, very near the Spanish border. Along the way, we passed through vast cork oak forests with wild lavender growing alongside the road. The scenery appeared unspoiled by human existence. Our first destination was Castelo de Vide, an enchanting village nestled at the foot of the mountains. We pulled up to Praça de Dom Pedro V, a picturesque square in the town center, which was quiet and seemed devoid of tourists. We had a quick bite of lunch at Pirolito, a wine and tapisco bar located on a side street off the square. There was a dish we had at lunch that I’ve tried to recreate at home – tortilja. It’s basically a Spanish potato omelet, except they used crispy, matchstick potatoes and added a generous amount of whole-leaf cilantro, which was pleasantly unexpected. It sounds simple, but I’ve yet to perfect the crispiness or precision of the potatoes, which I believe they cut by hand.

The main reason I wanted to visit Castelo de Vide is because it is home to one of the last remaining synagogues in Portugal from the Middle Ages. After lunch, we headed to the area of the old Jewish Quarter to locate the synagogue, which is now a museum. The cobblestone lanes of the Jewish Quarter are steep and narrow, with pots of colorful geraniums gracing the entrance to some homes, while others had clothes drying from upper story windows. We reached the museum and thoroughly surprised the proprietor when he learned we were from New York. Within the museum, there are Jewish artifacts on display along with several small exhibition spaces, but all of the descriptions and explanations were in Portuguese. Nonetheless, it’s incredible to think that this hill town on the frontier of Portugal and Spain once had a thriving Jewish community. 

After the synagogue, we walked up to Castelo de Vide’s namesake castle and snapped some great shots of the town’s orange terracotta rooftops from a miradouro atop the fortification. We then made our way back to the car and drove further up into the mountains to Marvão. This tiny, medieval village is perched on a rocky outcrop on one of the highest points in the Serra de São Mamede range, and is home to an incredibly well-preserved fortress, Castelo de Marvão. The castle, with its imposing walls and commanding views, was a formidable defensive structure that played a vital role in protecting Portugal’s borders. Today, it is a labyrinthe of crenelated walkways with some of the best views in all of Portugal. Charles and I were awestruck by this imposing citadel that dominates the skyline. It was the perfect weather for castle climbing, as we scaled the ramparts with blue skies all around and a golden hour sun nearing the horizon. We had the whole place to ourselves and felt like we had ascended to Portuguese castle heaven. On our way back to the car, we stopped at Marvão Com Gosto, a modest bakery in the village that sells delicious, homemade almond cookies.

From Marvão, we drove to the city of Estremoz, where we had dinner at Mercearia Gadanha. This lovely spot, located off the Rossio Marquês de Pombal, is an upscale grocery store, wine cellar, and restaurant all in one. The kitchen is known for its innovative approaches to traditional Alentejan cooking. As we sat down, I noticed a recipe for bolo de chocolate (chocolate cake) written out in large, whimsical cursive on a blackboard. This was very sweet – literally and figuratively – but first we needed savory. Some standouts from the meal include croquetes de borrego (lamb croquettes) served with a roasted garlic aioli, and arroz de pato (duck rice), a modern interpretation of the classic dish served with cabbage and smoked sausage. The bread and olive oil were also exceptional. We ate very well in the Alentejo.

Last visited in April, 2024

#Portugal