Setúbal Peninsula, Portugal

After Lisbon, Charles and I rented a car and headed east to the Alentejo countryside for three nights. On the way, we spent the afternoon exploring the Setúbal Peninsula. This gorgeous region, just a short drive from the city across the Tagus River, features an array of diverse landscapes, with beautiful Atlantic beaches to the west, dramatic cliffs hovering above a turquoise coastline to the south, and a fertile interior of vineyards, farmland, and open pastures. It is hard to believe all this exists just 25 miles from the center of Lisbon. And the best part – the area has an authentic flavor that feels mostly unaltered by tourism.

We began the day with a visit to Cabo Espichel, a dramatic cape located at the southwestern tip of the peninsula, renowned for its rugged, stunning coastal scenery. The red and white Farol do Cabo Espichel lighthouse stands guard over the ocean and is surrounded by scrubby matorral. We pulled up to a nearly empty parking lot and set out on foot down a gravelly path lined with greenery studded with bursts of wild golden daisies and purple gromwell. The raw power of the Atlantic was on display and temporarily permeated our being, with the mighty roar of the waves below and forceful oceanic gusts whipping us around and smacking our faces with rogue particles of sand. I had to hold onto my hat to keep it from blowing away. Being the nature boy that I am, I was in my element, but I could see Charles wasn’t enjoying this. We completed a short circuit around the headland, pushing our way against the wind to get back to the car. What an exhilarating experience!

From the lighthouse, we drove next door to the Santuario de Nossa Senhora do Cabo Espichel. This shining example of Portuguese Baroque architecture features a large church, cloisters, hermitage, and water house with an 18th century aqueduct. The sanctuary’s origins can be traced back to a legend involving a miraculous appearance of the Virgin Mary in the 15th century. Today, it is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the country. Fortunately, on the day of our visit, it was devoid of pilgrims or tourists – and surprisingly, with the lighthouse still in view, it was much less gusty.

The entire shrine had an ethereal presence. The church is perfectly framed by two long stretches of arched cloisters. The sun had come out, casting a radiant glow against the white stucco siding and orange terracotta roof tiles, with a backdrop of brilliant blue sky dotted with fluffy cumulus clouds. The austerity of the sanctuary created a unique juxtaposition with the natural beauty and dazzling coastal views surrounding it. This is the perfect setting for a divine visit from the Virgin Mary.

We left Cabo Espichel and headed to Sesimbra, a nearby beachtown, for some lunch. I had wanted to visit the world famous Mercado do Livramento seafood market in the city of Setúbal, but alas, it was Monday – the only day it is closed. Sesimbra is an alluring site. Located at the bottom of a steep cove along the peninsula’s southern coast, a grid of calçada portuguesa lanes lined with beach-y themed boutiques, cafes, and seafood joints spill out onto a long stretch of pristine beach. A well-preserved Moorish castle sits on a hill guarding over the town – an indication that this has been a coveted settlement throughout the centuries.

We had lunch at Forte de Santiago, an outdoor restaurant situated in a historic beachfront fortification, known as Fortaleza de Santiago, which was originally constructed in the 16th century. The scenic location offers a spectacular 360-degree panorama of the ocean, the beach, the town, and the surrounding mountains – and the food was good, too. We ordered pastéis de bacalhau (salted cod croquettes), choco frito (fried cuttlefish – a Portuguese delicacy), and a large fresh salad with local shrimp. Between the delicious seafood and the picturesque setting, this turned out to be one of my favorite meals on the trip.

From Sesimbra, Charles and I drove into Parque Natural da Arrábida, renowned for its breathtaking coastal scenery and diverse ecosystems. The park is home to the Serra da Arrábida mountain range, which boasts dramatic limestone cliffs that plunge into the crystal-clear waters of the Atlantic, with lush forests, including pine and cork oak, covering the hillsides. The mountains help to create a Mediterranean microclimate, trapping warm air and protecting the region from harsh winds.

We parked along the road and took a quick hike down the Alto do Jaspe trail, which led through dense thickets of maquis to a clearing atop a bluff 700 feet above the ocean. We then got back in the car and followed the Estrada de Escarpa, a breathtaking drive that winds through the Serra da Arrábida, with stunning vistas of the surrounding emerald precipices and turquoise Atlantic waters. We encountered several hairpin turns and steep inclines, which made for an exhilarating journey (for me, anyway…Charles has a mild case of acrophobia). There were three miradouros along the way, where we pulled off, got out of the car, and soaked up the scenery. The views were truly mesmerizing.

As we descended the mountain, we were stopped by a movie crew about to film a motorcycle chase scene. We were stuck in a lineup of cars for about 20 minutes, but I got out and found a makeshift trail along the cliff, where I continued to gaze out at the dazzling views – and spotted a pod of porpoising dolphins! We continued our descent after the crew wrapped up filming, and I could see why they chose this stretch of roadway, as it was extra steep and serpentine (poor Charles). The massif lets out into the city of Setúbal, which seemed to have an authentic character and local flavor. I would’ve liked to have stopped, but we had a 90-minute drive ahead of us to reach our hotel in the Alentejo.

I can see myself revisiting the Setúbal Peninsula. I would stay locally for a few nights to continue exploring the Parque Natural da Arrábida, visit some of those beautiful beaches we had seen from up above, and eat my way down the coast at the region’s renown marisqueiras.

Last visited in April, 2024

#Portugal