Sintra, Portugal
Sintra is an enchanting town and region located just outside of Lisbon. It’s known for its stunning palaces, castles, and rich, green landscape – all of which make for a perfect day trip from the city. The concierge at the Palacio Ludovice arranged a full day tour for Charles and me through the tour operator, I Go Portugal. We were picked up at the hotel by our charming and quirky guide, Sonia, who packed us into her Audi and maneuvered her way out of central Lisbon.
After a short drive west on the A37, the Serra de Sintra range came into view. This verdant ridgeline is so incredibly lush due to a unique microclimate created by the mountains, which trap moisture-laden oceanic air. This leads to increased rainfall and fog in the region, resulting in a rare composition of fertile soil that supports a diverse range of flora and fauna. Due to this microclimate, there is often a marine layer hovering above Sintra, but fortunately on the day we visited, it was sunny with blue skies.
Sintra boasts a vibrant and fascinating history. Its strategic location and natural beauty have made it a desirable settlement since the Paleolithic period. Later, the Celts and Romans left their mark, followed by the Moors, who ruled the region from the 8th to the 12th century. The Moorish influence is still visible today in the Castelo dos Mouros, perched atop one of Serra de Sintra’s highest peaks. Several centuries later, the region became a summer retreat for Portuguese royalty, which led to the construction of multiple stunning palaces dotting the hillside, each showcasing a blend of forms and styles. The architectural and natural splendor of Sintra led to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, recognizing its cultural, historical, and geographic significance.
The town of Sintra is located at the foot of the mountain. Charles and I moseyed around while Sonia parked the car. It’s a beguiling spot with narrow sloped calçada portuguesa lanes lined with galleries, artist studios, inns and guest houses, and eateries of all kinds. After reuniting with Sonia, we began our ascent to Quinta da Regaleira, our first palace visit of the day. This historic estate was built in the early 20th century by António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, a wealthy Portuguese businessman. It is known for its unique architecture, which combines elements of Gothic, Manueline, and Romantic styles. It also features a number of underground tunnels and wells, which are said to have been used for Masonic rituals.
As we approached the ticket counter, a moderate-sized line had formed ahead of us. It was a beautiful Sunday in April, and many Lisboetas were out and about. This is when we first experienced Sonia’s tour guide magic. She knew everyone working the line, from the security guards to the cashiers. After a few laughs and love taps, we were ushered to the front like VIPs, which saved us a good 30 minutes of waiting.
Before reaching the palace, we wandered the grounds of the estate, which featured serpentine terraced pathways anchored by stark, yet beautiful limestone edifices, like a Manueline chapel, several water features, and a tower crowned with a small battlement with embrasures. We then made our way to the Poço Iniciático, the Initiation Well. It’s actually not a well in the traditional sense, but rather an inverted tower with a spiral staircase descending 89 feet into the ground. While its exact purpose is still debated, many believe it was used for Templar Knight initiation ceremonies. After scaling the spiral staircase, we were ushered through a labyrinth of underground caves that let out onto a footbridge spanning a grotto. The experience was mystical and otherworldly.
From the grotto we made our way to the Quinta da Regaleira palace. A product of the renowned Italian designer, Luigi Manini, this remarkable structure is a shining example of architectural eclecticism. Its Gothic influences are most noticeable, especially in the various pointed arches, gargoyles, and stained glass windows. Manueline elements are layered in with nautical themes and carvings, while the palace’s interiors are strewn with Renaissance details featuring classical columns, symmetrical rooms and layouts, and ornate wall and ceiling decorations. I was mesmerized by the stunning chestnut wood ceiling of the Music Room, which is adorned with an intricate rocaille design of flowing curves, scrolls, and shell-like motifs. The room also boasts frescoes on the walls, further enhancing its opulence.
Sonia left us on our own to stroll for a bit while she fetched the car. Our next stop would be the magnificent Palácio Nacional da Pena, a fairytale castle perched on a precipice at the top of the mountain and surrounded by lush parklands filled with exotic trees, ponds, and grottos. Built in the 19th century as a summer palace for King Ferdinand II, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a riot of colors blended by various architectural styles, from Gothic turrets to Moorish domes.
Sonia knew of a secret parking lot, which got us very close to the main entrance. And yet again, we were ushered to the front of the line as she chatted away with the staff. It happened to be the first Sunday of the month – which offers free entry for all Portuguese citizens. Little did we know the palace would be overflowing with daytrippers like ourselves. Fortunately, we had Sonia. She had the palace layout memorized. Instead of trudging through the crowds, she knew of an elevator bank accessible through the bookshop that led to Triton’s Terrace, which features a Neo Gothic arch decorated with corals holding up three shells, with an ominous looking Triton in the center.
Upon walking beneath Triton, we were graced by the Courtyard of Arches, or Pátio dos Arcos, a stunning feature of the Pena Palace. Characterized by a series of Moorish-inspired arches that frame breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, the courtyard itself is also a work of art, with its intricate tilework and colorful facade. We gazed out at the rolling hills of Sintra and the distant Atlantic, with the beautifully landscaped Pena Park in the foreground.
With the hoards of people, we opted not to tour the palace interiors and instead head to a late lunch. Sonia knew a great spot in nearby Cascais. Thirty minutes later, we pulled up to Mar do Inferno, a popular seafood restaurant located right next to the dramatic cliff formation known as Boca do Inferno. There was a line out the door, but Sonia knew the owner and was able to snag us a last-minute table. Charles and I invited her to join us for lunch…she was so touched. She helped us order, and before long, plates brimming with fresh prawns, clams, and octopus were brought to the table.
While we ate, Sonia shared with us her fascinating history. She was born to mix-race parents in Angola, which was a Portuguese colony for centuries. After the country gained independence in 1975, a brutal and bloody civil war broke out, and her family fled for the safety of Portugal. Sonia is fair-skinned with wavy blonde hair, and you would never know that she was of African descent. I was intrigued…and reminded that, for such a relatively small country, Portugal’s imperialism is far-reaching and has affected the lives of hundreds of millions across the globe.
Our final stop of the day would be Cabo da Roca, a dramatic headland located on the westernmost point of mainland Europe and crowned by a famous lighthouse. The drive to the cape was picturesque as we cruised along the N247 coastal road, with the turquoise Atlantic to our left and the emerald humps of Serra de Sintra in the distance. Cabo da Roca’s parking lot was full, so we hopped out and explored on our own. The day’s beautiful weather had drawn a crowd, but a manageable one. At this majestic spot, cliffs rise dramatically above the ocean. We were all there for the same reasons – to soak up the panoramic views of the coastline and listen to the crashing waves below. It was a peaceful and tranquil way to end our beautiful day trip to Sintra.
Last visited in April, 2024
