Horseback riding in the Golan Heights was one of the most terrifying and exhilarating experiences of my life to date. Can you believe I’d never been on a horse before? Same for Charles. Our guide, Uri, at Ramot Ranch selected Whisper for me—a seal brown gelding who behaved like a teenager who had just passed his driving test. He wanted to be the first in line no matter how low I held the reins. Thankfully, about halfway through the ride,…