It started off as an overcast October morning in eastern Tuscany’s Val di Chiana. Charles and I had spent the prior day, in the rain, exploring San Gimignano and Siena, both beautiful historic cities—but both overrun by tawdry tourist shops and overpriced restaurants serving mediocre food. We were seeking a more authentic Tuscan experience, and it was suggested that we visit Arezzo. A city known to art lovers, Arezzo is home to Piero della Francesca’s most celebrated fresco cycle, Legend…