Turin, Italy
The Hidden Gem of Piedmont and the Alps
On your first visit to Italy, it’s customary to start with the “Grand Tour” – Venice, Florence, and Rome. For return visitors, you may want to see Milan and the lakes or Naples and Amalfi. However, if you should find yourself back in Italy for a third or fourth time, I highly recommend Turin, or Torino. I visited this vibrant city and the neighboring Langhe region in the fall of 2023 and was blown away by their beauty and authenticity – and pleasantly surprised by the lack of crowds. Nestled in the heart of Piedmont and framed by the majestic Alps, the region is a true environmental and historical enigma.
Turin Palace Hotel: A Historic Retreat in Crocetta
Charles and I stayed at the Turin Palace Hotel, housed in a beautifully restored 1870 building in the Crocetta district. It rises above one the city’s historic stretches of Parisian-inspired arcades, a feature that established it as a prominent figure in the 19th-century hospitality scene. Today, the hotel blends historical charm with modern luxuries like a hammam spa and a sweeping rooftop terrace with 360° views. Upon arrival, we sipped espressos on the rooftop while waiting for our room, watching the city glow against the mountain backdrop.
Turin Unveiled: Panoramic Views and Savoy Grandeur at Villa della Regina
I spent a solo afternoon exploring the plane tree-lined Corso Vittorio Emanuele II toward the river Po. After crossing the water, I climbed to the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte dei Cappuccini. From the balcony, I gazed out at a profusion of low-lying, red terracotta roofs stretching for miles toward the Alps, with only the dome and spire of the famed Mole Antonelliana breaking the skyline.
Further up into the hills sits Villa della Regina, a 17th-century estate built by the House of Savoy. Once a favored escape for royal ladies, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While much of the furniture has moved to Rome, the intricate frescoes by artists like Giovanni Battista Crosato remain. The gardens are the real pièce de résistance – specifically the Grotta del Re Selvaggio (Cave of the Wild King), a rococo “wedding cake” of statues and fountains, and the Vigna della Regina, a meticulously restored vineyard still producing Freisa di Chieri DOC wine.
Exploring the Centro District: Baroque Palaces, Chocolate, and Roman Roots
Our private tour of the Centro district with our guide, Francesca, took us down Via Roma to Piazza San Carlo, nicknamed the Salotto di Torino (Turin’s Drawing Room). We stopped at Stratta, a historic cioccolateria serving confections since 1836. Charles and I later returned for gianduja – the renowned hazelnut chocolate synonymous with Turin – and divine fruit jellies in flavors like moscato and Campari.
The history here is layered; we admired the curved terracotta facade of Palazzo Carignano before stopping at Piazza Castello. Here, Francesca pointed out three Stumbling Blocks (Stolpersteine) in the sidewalk, commemorating a Jewish family taken by Nazi collaborators in 1943. I always try to incorporate Jewish history wherever we travel; it is a gut-wrenching but necessary reminder. We concluded at the Duomo di Torino, home to the Shroud of Turin, and the Porta Palatina, a remarkably well-preserved Roman gate from the 1st century.
Lingotto Complex: Turin’s Industrial Past and Artistic Future
On our final day, we explored the Lingotto complex, the former Fiat factory transformed into a cultural hub. We headed to the rooftop to the Pinacoteca Agnelli, a “treasure chest” gallery designed by Renzo Piano. I was mesmerized by the Matisse paintings depicting women with vibrant floral arrangements, and a mind-blowing Canaletto titled The Bucintoro at the Molo on Ascension Day, which recreates Venetian history with stunning accuracy.
From the gallery, we walked La Pista 500, Fiat’s 1923 rooftop test track now turned into a hanging garden. The highlight was Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster’s Pistarama, a monumental mural illustrating Turin’s social struggles. We spent 30 minutes digesting its message – a visual plea of “Can’t we all just get along?!” We ended at the original Eataly, indulging in a seasonal pizzolo (a double-crust Sicilian pizza) stuffed with anchovies, caramelized onions, and pine nuts, paired with a bitter chinotto soda.
Turin’s Culinary Scene: From Historic Institutions to Neighborhood Gems
While the broader region is a haven for the earnest and the elegant, the dining scene within Turin itself is truly transformative. Here, the city’s regal history meets the rustic flavors of the surrounding hills. Whether you are sampling golden tajarin pasta or the legendary white truffle (tartufo bianco), every meal in this city feels like an event.
Del Cambio: For a truly elevated experience, we requested a table in the Sala Risorgimento, a room dripping with history and 18th-century elegance. As a Michelin-starred institution, Del Cambio manages to preserve its historic charm while delivering innovative cuisine. The standout was the insalata piemontese, a signature of chef Matteo Baronetto that featured an unexpected and delicious cornucopia of amarena sciroppata e colatura di alici (black cherry in syrup with anchovy drippings), cipolla al forno (baked onion), funghi all’olio de brace (mushrooms in charcoal oil), and margherite dolci (sweet daisies).
Mille: Located in the heart of the Centro district, Mille is a contemporary space that serves regional fare with a seasonally changing menu. It was the perfect option for a jet-lagged traveler in need of a tasty, yet light cena. We enjoyed the tajarin with fresh lobster, calamari, and clams in a zesty lemon and parsley sauce – simple, flavorful, and incredibly fresh.
Piccolo Lord: Tucked away in the Vanchiglia neighborhood, Piccolo Lord offers a more intimate, romantic atmosphere with its exposed brick ceilings and warm lighting. The menu focuses on traditional Piedmontese cuisine with a creative twist. I ordered the petto d’anatra (duck breast), which was served with succulent caramelized cipollini onions and chestnuts. The duck was cooked to perfection – medium-rare and sliced like butter.
Last visited in October, 2023
