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Beaches of the Basque Coast
With autumn setting in and winter on its way, I’ve been feeling nostalgic for the beaches of the Basque Coast – from the flysch-carved cove of Zumaia’s Playa de Itzurun to the white sands of San Sebastián’s iconic Playa de la Concha and the bustling energy of Biarritz’s La Grande Plage. Fed by the Atlantic waters of the Cantabrian Sea, the beaches of the Basque Coast span the shores of northeastern Spain and southwestern France. The vibe is more relaxed…
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Getaria, Spain
This tiny coastal village on the Cantabrian Sea packs a big punch. Aside from its picturesque old town centered around the dramatic Gothic Church of San Salvador, Getaria is renowned for its grilled fish jatetxeak (restaurants) and rolling hills covered in Txakolí vineyards. Txakolí (pronounced cha-ko-LEE), a refreshingly young and fruity white wine with slight acidity and effervescence, is served throughout the Basque region. For me, it was love at first sip. The most noteworthy jatetxea in town is Elkano,…
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Ruta del Flysch, Zumaia, Spain
Set within the Basque Coast Geopark, the Ruta del Flysch offers visitors 13 miles of scenic coastal trails, access to secluded coves, close-up views of some remarkable rock formations, and a chance to see over 60 million years of Earth’s history in the making. The Basque region is situated at the intersection of the Western Pyrenees and the Atlantic Ocean. Positioned literally along the brink of this formidable mountain chain, the Ruta del Flysch boasts miles of wave-cut cliffs (flysch)…
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Hotel Iturregi, Getaria, Spain
Situated on an edenic hilltop in Getaria with commanding views of the entire Basque coastline, Hotel Iturregi was our little paradise for seven days earlier this summer. Surrounded by verdant hills covered in txakoli vineyards, this eight-room country estate offered luxury and exclusivity, but in a relaxed and easy atmosphere with an incredibly helpful and friendly staff (that spoke a multitude of languages). Upon first arriving, we couldn’t get over the views…the hills, the sea, the sky. We had never…
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Civita di Bagnoregio, Italy
There really is no other place quite like Civita di Bagnoregio. Accessible solely by a quarter-mile long footbridge, this remote little commune is perched atop an island of volcanic tufa, amid the windswept canyons of the Tiber River valley. Founded by the Etruscans in the 5th century BCE, Civita thrived for hundreds of years before it began to literally crumble in the 16th century. The sliver of earth that once connected Civita to neighboring village Bagnoregio eventually eroded away, isolating…
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Foro Romano, Rome, Italy
The Foro Romano was the hub and heart of ancient Rome. Home to the city’s most important legal, political, and triumphal monuments, the forum also served as an area for public gatherings and celebrations. Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, the forum fell victim to neglect, looting, and mother nature. In 1800, excavations began to uncover the ancient ruins, which were at the time buried beneath 30 feet of soot! Miraculously – 28 centuries later – arches, columns, and…
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Val d’Orcia, Tuscany, Italy
I had my Tuscan photo-op fantasy fulfilled while driving through the Val d’Orcia. Verdant hills, quintessential cypress rows, perfectly manicured vineyards, historic ridgetop villages—these are the vistas that abound in the Val d’Orcia. Throw in a perfectly sunny day in autumn, and you’ll be propelled into a photo-taking frenzy like I was. Although I must say, while I was fortunate enough to snap some striking shots, there is no replacement for experiencing this slice of Italian countryside other than being…
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Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy
It started off as an overcast October morning in eastern Tuscany’s Val di Chiana. Charles and I had spent the prior day, in the rain, exploring San Gimignano and Siena, both beautiful historic cities—but both overrun by tawdry tourist shops and overpriced restaurants serving mediocre food. We were seeking a more authentic Tuscan experience, and it was suggested that we visit Arezzo. A city known to art lovers, Arezzo is home to Piero della Francesca’s most celebrated fresco cycle, Legend…
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Solbar, Calistoga, California
Just a few weeks ago I had a phenomenal meal at Solbar, the premier restaurant at Solage Calistoga in Napa. Charles and I were staying on the other side of the Mayacamas in the charming Sonoma town of Glen Ellen. A bit less manicured than its neighbor to the east, we loved the vibe of Sonoma, but each of our inner gastronomes was craving a more elevated dining experience. Solbar offered the best of both worlds—an inventive menu paired with…
