Cartagena, Colombia - Well-Traveled Fella

The Perfect Winter Escape: History, Food, and Caribbean Charm

When my best friend Steph and I were looking for a warm-weather getaway, we wanted something more than the typical all-inclusive experience of Cancun or Punta Cana. Cartagena, Colombia had been on my short list for years, known for its burgeoning food scene and a historic Walled City filled with vibrant Spanish Colonial mansions. Steph was on board the moment I mentioned the shopping, and soon we were on a nonstop flight from JFK, ready for the intoxicating heat of the Caribbean.

Where to Stay: The Boutique Luxury of Casa Claver

Our home base was Casa Claver Loft Boutique Hotel, located right in the heart of the Walled City. The hotel is a stunning example of colonial architecture updated with modern loft-style living. Our apartment featured soaring cathedral ceilings, private balconies, and a three-story open-air atrium filled with tropical flora.

The highlight, however, was the rooftop. We spent our mornings in a “rhythm of relaxation,” reading and sunbathing by a soaking pool that looks out over the 16th-century Iglesia San Pedro Claver. Surrounded by vibrant bougainvillea, it felt like a private oasis high above the city streets.

Shopping in the Walled City: From Luxury Brands to Street Markets

Cartagena is a paradise for those looking for unique fashion and local crafts. The narrow lanes of the Old City are lined with high-end boutiques and artisan markets. On our first day, I found a pair of kaleidoscope swim trunks at OndadeMar, a premier Colombian luxury resort brand, and explored ST DOM, a beautiful multi-brand concept store set in a colonial courtyard.

For Steph, the draw was the hand-woven bucket bags (Wayuu bags) sold by street peddlers. Each vendor has a unique collection of colors and patterns. After some “zigging and zagging” through the streets, she finally found the perfect design at a market along the historic city walls.

Exploring the Cartagena Food Scene: Fresh Seafood and Bistro Vibes

If you are wondering where to eat in Cartagena, you’ll find the city’s culinary reputation is well-deserved. We enjoyed several world-class meals:

Marea by Rausch: Located at the Convention Center with stunning bay views, we loved the crab and guacamole tower and the squid ink spaghetti frutti di mare.
Donjuán: Chef Juan Felipe Camacho offers Caribbean-inspired small plates in a stylish bistro setting.
Alma: Set within Hotel Casa San Agustin, this is the place to try the cazuela de mariscos (seafood soup) in a rich coconut broth.

Island Hopping: A Day Trip to Isla Coralina

While the city beaches aren’t the main attraction, the nearby Islas del Rosario are home to translucent turquoise waters. Our hotel arranged a day trip to Isla Coralina, where we enjoyed a private cabana club experience for about $80 USD.

Pro-Tip: The boat ride back can be quite “choppy” due to the late-afternoon winds that hit the Caribbean coast. Most day-tripper boats leave around 2:30 PM to avoid the worst of it, but be prepared for a bumpy ride!

Getsemani: Cartagena’s Bohemian Soul

On our last day, we ventured into Getsemani, a neighborhood just outside the old city walls that has transformed from a rough district into a bohemian hub. The streets here are a living gallery of stunning graffiti and local art. We loved the whimsical “Umbrella Alley” and grabbed a casual lunch at Chachara, a restaurant that perfectly captures the “abandoned building” aesthetic.

Sunset on the City Walls: A Perfect Finale

A quintessential Cartagena activity is watching the sun dissipate into an aqueous horizon from the city’s ancient ramparts. While the famous Café del Mar has closed its doors, the tradition lives on just a short walk away at El Baluarte San Francisco Javier. This historic watering hole is built directly into the fortifications, offering a perfect westward-facing view of the Caribbean.

Being from the East Coast, it is rare that I get to witness such a dramatic sunset. We arrived early to secure a spot on the stone walls, tropical cocktail in hand, and watched as the sky turned a fiery orange over the colonial rooftops. It was the last evening of our trip, and as we sat on those centuries-old stones gazing at the ball of fire hovering just above the sea, I thought to myself – I’ll definitely be returning to Cartagena someday.