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Milan, Italy
I had heard mixed reviews about Milan: there are no sites to see; it’s too industrial; it’s too work-a-day and no play. It turns out, these are the exact reasons why I loved Italy’s number two. Charles and I stayed at the conveniently located ME Milan Il Duca on Piazza della Repubblica and walked everywhere. We were: We had one of our finer meals at Michelin-starred Contraste in the buzzing Navigli neighborhood, where it seemed all the young Milanese hung…
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Filario Hotel, Lezzeno, Italy
The Well-Traveled Fella has a list of set criteria when choosing a hotel. I like a clean and modern design throughout, at least a 4.5 Google star rating, a free-standing shower, a king-size bed (when travelling with Charles), a decent view, a room with at least 300 square feet of space, and a non-exorbitant price tag. In searching for a hotel in and around Lake Como, I found it particularly challenging to uncover options that met my standards. There are…
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Castles of Bellinzona, Switzerland
Bellinzona is the capital of Ticino, the only Italian-speaking canton of Switzerland. Located in a valley at the foot of the Alps, the city straddles the Fiume Ticino, which empties into nearby Lago Maggiore. Perched on hillsides surrounding the town are the three Castelli di Bellinzona, some of the best-preserved examples of medieval fortifications, which gained UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000. Castelgrande, the oldest of the three, has been fortified since the late 1st century BC during the reign…
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Greenway del Lago di Como, Italy
The Greenway del Lago di Como is a pleasant seven mile trail that stretches along Lake Como’s central western shore. Starting in Colonno, the Greenway passes through the bucolic villages of Sala Comacina, Ossuccio, Lenno, Mezzegra, Tremezzo, and Griante. There is plenty to see along the way, from lavish villas and gardens to Romanesque and Baroque churches…and not to mention the endless stunning mountain and lake vistas. After a morning visit to the Villa del Balbianello, Charles and I grabbed…
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Villa del Balbianello, Lenno, Italy
Perched on the wooded promontory of Il Dosso d’Avedo, the 18th century Villa del Balbianello commands panoramic views of Lago di Como, making it one of the most exclusive estates in the Italian Lakes. A Franciscan monastery first occupied this site in the 13th century, its twin campanili remaining a part of the present-day design. In 1785, Cardinal Angelo Maria Durini purchased the property and converted the monastery building into a villa and added the loggia for optimal viewing of…
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Civita di Bagnoregio, Italy
There really is no other place quite like Civita di Bagnoregio. Accessible solely by a quarter-mile long footbridge, this remote little commune is perched atop an island of volcanic tufa, amid the windswept canyons of the Tiber River valley. Founded by the Etruscans in the 5th century BCE, Civita thrived for hundreds of years before it began to literally crumble in the 16th century. The sliver of earth that once connected Civita to neighboring village Bagnoregio eventually eroded away, isolating…
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Foro Romano, Rome, Italy
The Foro Romano was the hub and heart of ancient Rome. Home to the city’s most important legal, political, and triumphal monuments, the forum also served as an area for public gatherings and celebrations. Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, the forum fell victim to neglect, looting, and mother nature. In 1800, excavations began to uncover the ancient ruins, which were at the time buried beneath 30 feet of soot! Miraculously – 28 centuries later – arches, columns, and…
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Val d’Orcia, Tuscany, Italy
I had my Tuscan photo-op fantasy fulfilled while driving through the Val d’Orcia. Verdant hills, quintessential cypress rows, perfectly manicured vineyards, historic ridgetop villages—these are the vistas that abound in the Val d’Orcia. Throw in a perfectly sunny day in autumn, and you’ll be propelled into a photo-taking frenzy like I was. Although I must say, while I was fortunate enough to snap some striking shots, there is no replacement for experiencing this slice of Italian countryside other than being…
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Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy
It started off as an overcast October morning in eastern Tuscany’s Val di Chiana. Charles and I had spent the prior day, in the rain, exploring San Gimignano and Siena, both beautiful historic cities—but both overrun by tawdry tourist shops and overpriced restaurants serving mediocre food. We were seeking a more authentic Tuscan experience, and it was suggested that we visit Arezzo. A city known to art lovers, Arezzo is home to Piero della Francesca’s most celebrated fresco cycle, Legend…
