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Cape Cod, Massachusetts (Part 1)
Earlier this year, Charles and I had a two-week getaway planned to Spain and Portugal in honor of our 10-year anniversary, but, like most travel plans the world over, ours were canceled due to COVID. When the end of summer rolled around and it was deemed safe for Americans to travel domestically to regions with low case and hospitalization rates, Cape Cod seemed like the perfect destination: not too far from where we’re currently based in the Catskills; easy access…
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Lake Como, Italy
The best way to see Lake Como is by boat. I had read this tip in numerous guide books prior to my first trip to the Italian Lakes in the fall of 2018. Growing up in the suburbs of Northern New Jersey, my family wasn’t really into boats. The one and only boating memory I had was from a trip to Florida while visiting my grandparents. Their friends owned a yacht and took my entire family on a tour of…
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Franciacorta & Lake Iseo, Italy
Here are some scenes from the morning I spent in Franciacorta, the sparkling wine-producing region of central Lombardy, followed by an afternoon exploring Lake Iseo and an evening in Brescia. I began the day at Scuderia Crazy Horse, an equestrian facility in Erbusco, the heart of Franciacorta. I rode a spry colt named Cognac through vineyards and bridal trails. It was a beautiful fall day and the scenery was sublime, made even more striking by hints of vibrant autumnal foliage…
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Bergamo, Italy (Revisited)
Bergamo is one of the most attractive cities in Italy. Located at the foot of the Orobie Alps, the city proper is divided into two main parts: the historic Città Alta, perched on a hill and fortified by the impeccably maintained 16th-century Venetian Walls, and the modern Città Bassa, with a fin de siècle framework that extends into the plains of Lombardy. While the Italian centro storico is often a tourist trap, the well-heeled Bergamaschi inhabit both parts of town,…
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Varese, Italy
I had planned a day trip to Varese the last time I visited Lake Como in 2018, but with so much to see and do around the lake — not to mention the 90-minute drive it would take to get there — Charles and I never got around to it. Fast forward a year later, I made Varese a top priority on my solo trip to Northern Italy. Varese is a genteel city of 80,000 in a province that shares…
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Varenna, Itay
Varenna is one of the most charming villages in all of Italy, and it even retains its charm in the rain. On the day I was supposed to explore Varenna and its environs, it precipitated nonstop. Luckily, it was a gentle and windless rain, which enabled me to stick to my itinerary and still enjoy the pleasures of Varenna—with a slicker and umbrella in tow. Set on the eastern shore of Lake Como, Varenna was founded in the sixth century…
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Villa Carlotta & Chiesa di San Martino, Lake Como, Italy
In October of 2019 I did something a little different—I took a solo trip to Italy. By choice, I was between jobs and had some extra money stashed away, and decided to take advantage of this rare moment in my life by doing what I love most—traveling. I was away for 10 nights, during which I spent time on Lake Como with a day trip to Varese, then moved on to Bergamo with visits to Lake d’Iseo and Lake Garda,…
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Wachau Valley, Austria
During our four-night stay in Vienna, we devoted one day to exploring the Wachau Valley, the historic and pastoral region along the banks of the Danube only an hour west of the city. It gained UNESCO world heritage status in 2000 to preserve the region’s unique cultural landscape, which includes steeply terraced ancient vineyards separated by quaint historic villages. Walter Juraschek, our guide from two days prior, picked us up from our hotel and led our day-long private tour. We…
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Como, Italy
The city of Como is charming, walkable, and relatively non-touristy. It’s located at the southern tip of Lake Como’s Ramo di Como branch, and very accessible to the cities, towns, and lakes of northern Lombardy and Piemonte. Charles and I drove through Como en route to Filario Hotel, where we stayed for several nights while exploring the Lake Como region. I originally wrote off the city as being just a transportation hub for connections from Milan, but after getting a…
